Getting under the Surface at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Beverly Hills
Sushi by Scratch Restaurants, from the Michelin-starred duo of Phillip Frankland Lee and
Margarita Kallas-Lee has expanded to the hills of Bever-ly for a 90-day pop-up just in time for the holiday season. This was my first foray into the Scratch world, and I can’t wait to walk you through the most memorable bites of this two-hour, 17-course omakase. A meal at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Beverly Hills is the perfect way to entertain those out-of-town guests with the glitz and glamour of Los Angeles life set against the silvery-white backdrop of the SLS Beverly Hills.
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The Pre-Show
After arriving at the SLS Beverly Hills, you’ll be directed to a side entrance where a member of the Scratch team will greet you. Next, you will be led to a long dining room table at the end of the hall. The omakase is limited to ten guests, and after being instructed to sit opposite your dining partner, others will begin to arrive, and things start to feel like you’re in a real-life game of Clue. Cocktails and Canapés will be served during this pre-dinner service, so it’s suggested that you arrive at least 30 minutes before your reservation to enjoy this special treat.
Just when you start to feel warm and settled in from the Suntory Whiskey Ginger Cocktail, the manager will come to let you know that you’ll be switching rooms. Before you know it, you’re in the dimly lit secret white room of the SLS Beverly Hills opposite three sushi masters who are about to take you on the culinary ride of your life. The guests you were seated with before have all been placed strategically in the room with name plates in front, and any formalities you may have had before are left at the door.
The Main Event
The 16 courses you are about to experience are listed on the wall behind the trio of chefs, so if you miss a moment of explanation, there is something to guide you back on track. The menu is not your typical nigiri tasting menu, although only the purest cuts of fish are presented, flown in twice a week from the Toyosu Fish Market in Tokyo. The bites are a mix of signature dishes and new inspirations, but all feature a kaleidoscope of flavors and colors. It’s also a hands-free meal, but your fingers will always remain clean. Bottomless Pickled Cucumbers are also at your disposal.
I recommend adding on a beverage pairing, with choices such as a Japanese Whiskey Pairing (6 pours), a Mix of Three Sakes, Two Micro Cocktails, and one Beer, and a Sake Pairing (6 pours). Although the pairing was created beforehand by Sake Sommelier and Director of Operations Gavin Humes, the Bartender on site that night (Max was mine) will curate the choices based on your preferences and if you partake in the Whiskey Pairing you’ll enjoy a special finale that is just for your palate.
The Most Impressive Bites of the Night
The menu has a dizzying amount of thought and ingredients poured into it, so remembering it all would be a feat of wonder (even for someone taking copious notes :)). These are the moments that best stood out to me.
The story begins with an Amberjack Hamachi topped with Crispy Sourdough, the sourdough being a famed creation of Chef Kallas-Lee. Mine was paired with a Junmai Daiginjo Sake, which is the highest grade.
Next, is Toro from Spain, topped with brown sugar and caviar. As the bites become spicier, a Rosé Sake is served to sweeten the dishes like the Kinmedai and Scallop topped with a Caviar Supplement. The supplements vary by evening and could be Truffle or Caviar.
The Albacore is an homage to the original Katsu-ya, and Chef Lee’s valley upbringing. It’s wrapped
in sake-soaked nori and topped with ponzu, fresh wasabi, and the “crispiest onions of your life.”
The flavor profiles are dazzling and just seem to top one another like the acts in a Cirque du Soleil show. The one I didn’t expect to love so much, though, was the Roasted Bone Marrow Nigiri seasoned with soy sauce, sea salt, and freshly grated wasabi root. It’s rich and buttery without being too much to handle on the stomach. That’s followed up with an Unagi that’s crisped up with the leftover bone marrow drippings and covered in a poblano yuzu kosho.
You might be thinking, where are the drinks? Well, by now, it’s time for those back-to-back micro cocktails, beginning with the Japanese Knees – a twist on the traditional Bees Knees cocktail made with Japanese whiskey instead of gin. My personal favorite was the LA Nights Cocktail – created just for the SLS Beverly Hills, made with a sherry-cask Whiskey and Japanese flour around the rim of the glass. The cocktails are served in earthenware saucers which you bring to your lips with two hands.
The final savory bite is Uni wrapped in seaweed – and as someone who generally doesn’t enjoy Uni, I think this might be the one to make me question my beliefs. This is paired with a Japanese Lager.
The Big Finish
While you might wonder how you’ll ever make room for dessert, there is one more surprise in store – the return of one of your favorite bites. As long as time permits during the two-hour tasting, the chefs will let you enjoy another piece of your favorite nigiri from the night, and somehow your stomach will allow it.
Then it’s off to the sweet finish: Chef Margarita’s Matcha Bon Bon with makrut lime, white chocolate, and shortbread. This cool bite is paired with a Hot Green Tea brewed with umeshu plum wine, smoked lavender honey, and fresh yuzu.
How to Book Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Beverly Hills
This 90-day pop-up began in early October and is expected to run until the end of the year. There are three time slots to choose from at 5 p.m., 7:15 p.m., and 9:30 p.m., Wednesday to Sunday nights. The tasting is priced at $185 a person and the beverage pairing is $105 to $125 a person. Make your reservations for Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Beverly Hills via Tock.
