Love, Loss, and What We Ate: Will the Coronavirus Kill Fine Dining Forever?
There’s no doubt that that the coronavirus has highlighted the class inequality of Los Angeles; with the hardest hit being the ones that have constantly been the hardest hit in terms of financial survival–except in the world of restaurants. In the past few months, we have seen the fall of some of the most seemingly untouchable eateries in this city; and the whipped cream of our daily lives slowly being scraped off leaving us with nothing but the bases. This is a eulogy for the restaurants we’ve loved, and a question we’ve all pondered in our minds: Will the Coronavirus Kill Fine Dining Forever?
During the same month that I was asked to cover my first opening since March of this year (a food truck); I’ve also witnessed the closing of two restaurants, and the near demise of another. All of which critics would argue have shaped the dining landscape of Los Angeles.
The closing of Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s Trois Mec in Hollywood along with the shuttering of Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown offer two very different stories of what an ending looks like. One did much less in terms of the overused “pivoting” while the other never stopped turning and transforming itself.
So will there still be a place for tasting menus in our future? Or will we forever be chasing food trucks on Instagram? While I have a place in my stomach for all of them, this is my goodbye to the ones that have my heart.
Auburn (Hollywood)
Almost in the same month that this newish restaurant from Chef/Owner Eric Bost was nominated for a James Beard Award, it was forced to close. I first went to Auburn for brunch in February, for their famed Cinnamon Croissants ($5) and delectable poached egg Brassicas dishes ($22).
While I was never able to go during the dinner prix-fixe, I was very fortunate to enjoy one of their last family-style meals using Tock to Go, and it did not disappoint.
Highlights included Braised Oxtail in Red Wine Jus; Creamy Polenta; Roasted Parsnips; and a spectacular Grain Salad.
Trois Mec (Hollywood)
Trois Mec opened in June of 2013 following an increase in demand for tasty bites from Chef Ludo Lefebvre. It was built on the foundation of being a tasting menu for the laid back and in-the-know crowd, and that continued all the way until the end.
Chef Ludo Lefebvre has helped create the anti-establishment fine dining vibe that other cities can’t understand–but it’s part of what makes Los Angeles so great.
It’s a spot known for anniversaries (I celebrated my 5th here) and spectacular nights out for less than the other guys. My favorite dishes from the 5-course prix-fixe have included the Crispy Tapioca with Parmesan and Passion Fruit; the Wood-Grilled Endive, Pain d’Epices, Citrus, Grilled Herb Mayo, and Radicchio; and savory dishes like Lamb with Yogurt Foam, Mint Pesto, Artichokes, Smoked Eel, and Dried Yeast.
While I will miss this one the most, I’m comforted that I can always pick up a Big Mec at Petit Trois.
Preux & Proper (Downtown L.A.)
One of the latest to join this list, Preux & Proper, from Owner Josh Kopel and Chef and partner Samuel Monsour was a taste of Louisiana in the city. Constantly working toward eco-sustainability, the vibrant restaurant space and the outdoor patio were always teeming with excitement and until the end this duo were entertainers. From Big Lebowski themed Halloween brunches to Damn Good Chicken Sammies, this spot will be missed. I’m quite hopeful we will see more from this team and until then we’ll be waiting with hungry bellies!
Patina (Downtown L.A.)
For years this was one was the tasting menu to beat. This fine-dining restaurant at the Walt Disney Concert Hall closed after thirty-one years in the business; and while some might say it’s best days were over a decade ago, it’s still hard to see this one go because of its history. The restaurant from Chef Joachim Splichal was written about by some of the best food critics in the world, and first received a Michelin star in 2007.
My fingers are crossed we won’t see the same happen to other Patina restaurant group spots like Kendall’s Brasserie and Ray & Stark’s Bar, but what they all have in common is their proximity to the concert halls and museums of our great city. All of which are empty now.
Here’s Looking at You (Koreatown)
Open since 2016, Here’s Looking at You from Lien Ta and Chef
Jonathan Whitener has captured the eye of media nationwide; even being named “Restaurant of the Year” by Food & Wine magazine. During the pandemic, they did their best to offer nightly pick-up specials like Beef Tartare; and eventually transitioned to Cheese Burgers and Sandos. But in the end, it wasn’t enough to keep the kitchen lights on.
While I hope this is just a temporary goodbye, for now, we have their sister space directly adjacent; All Day Baby, which offers more casual day-time dining.
Bon Temps (DTLA Arts District)
Bon Temps from Chef Lincoln Carson received a best new restaurant nod from Esquire Magazine in 2019; and in early 2020 I was savoring their Everything Croissants during an L.A. Food Bowl preview event. Just about a month later, the Chef was nominated for an Outstanding Pastry Chef James Beard Award. However, in almost the same breathe they announced the restaurant’s closure.
I look forward to the sweet return of Chef Lincoln Carson, for true brillance cannot be dimmed forever.
Broken Spanish
Broken Spanish from Chef Ray Garcia received a Bib Gourmand from the 2019 Michelin Guide, and was one of the most surprising closures on this list. They dominated the Tock-to-Go sphere with relatively affordable upscale Mexican dining and expanded their outdoor patio to accommodate more diners.
It’s a tragedy to see the closure of the 5-year old Broken Spanish, following the shuttering of Garcia’s B.S. Taqueria earlier this year. The only bright spot is an upcoming promise of Tacos Mila expanding from just delivery only.
For now, as with many, we will follow their Instagram for updates. Scrolling with one finger and crossing the others.
So will the coronavirus kill fine dining forever? My best guess is that we have a long road ahead of takeout and trucks in our future; but as long as we keep supporting our restaurants there’s hope we’ll be eating on real plates again soon.
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